Edinburgh was the first stop on my trip across the UK, Eastern Europe, and Western Europe, and despite this being my second visit to Scotland’s capital, it still felt like a completely new experience since it’s been so long. I was actually offered a semester abroad in Edinburgh during my university days, but turned it down back then since I had my heart set on Hong Kong instead. Looking back, it would’ve been a super cool experience, since my friend at the time went without me and had a blast! While I don’t regret my decision, returning to Edinburgh for a second time reminded me why the city had appealed to me in the first place. With its historic architecture, winding streets, and unique blend of old and new, it’s easy to see why so many people like to visit this city.
My first visit was just under a decade ago and lasted just a day, so in many ways this felt less like a return trip and more like seeing Edinburgh with a fresh pair of eyes. Although my stay was once again brief, I managed to experience some of the city’s most iconic sights and confirmed what I already knew: Edinburgh is a city that’s well worth adding to your itinerary.
Whether you’re visiting for a day, a weekend, or longer, Edinburgh offers a mix of deep history, culture, food, and scenery that makes it easy to see why so many travelers fall in love with it. In this guide, I’ll share what you need to know to make your trip to this city easier as well as the must-see attractions while you’re there to make the most of your time.
A Little History About Edinburgh, Scotland
Before getting into the itinerary, it’s worth understanding a little of Edinburgh’s history, because it completely shapes how the city feels when you walk through it.
Edinburgh has been the capital of Scotland since the 15th century and is built around the medieval Old Town, with its narrow closes and hidden passageways, and the Georgian New Town, designed later in the 18th century with wide streets and more symmetry. But underneath the surface, Edinburgh has a much darker past. It is considered one of the most haunted cities in the world, and once you hear the history, it makes sense why.
During the time of the plague, parts of the Old Town were sealed off entirely. When outbreaks hit in the 16th and 17th centuries, infected residents were sometimes locked inside their homes or confined to specific areas of the city, with survival rates really low. At one point, the city had only about 60 healthy men left to defend it. Entire families were wiped out in the same buildings that still stand today.
The city is also known for its witch trials between the 1500s and 1700s, where hundreds of people, mostly women, were accused of witchcraft and executed after forced confessions and public hysteria. Many were burned or strangled in public, often on Castlehill.
Grave robbing also became a real issue in the 18th and 19th centuries, driven by demand for medical cadavers for universities in Edinburgh as they got paid for providing a body. This led to the infamous case of Burke and Hare, who didn’t wait for graves to be dug up and instead murdered people to sell their bodies to medical schools. This story is also shared on a ghost tour I highly recommend doing in the itinerary below – they even take you to the sites of their homes and where this was done.
Public executions were also common, often carried out in public squares with crowds gathering to watch. One of the most famous execution sites was at the Grassmarket, just below Edinburgh Castle.
Today, most of these stories are part of tours and folklore, but when you’re walking through the Old Town at night, it doesn’t take much imagination to understand why Edinburgh has a reputation for being so atmospheric and deeply haunted. Luckily, I didn’t feel anything unusual, but I can understand why other people do.
Quick Travel Note For 2026 Onwards
As of February 25, 2026, the UK Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) was rolled out and enforced for all visitors, with some exceptions. This authorization allows you to travel to the UK, Jersey, Guernsey, or the Isle of Man for up to 6 months. You can get the ETA for tourism, visiting family, or other reasons. The best way to determine if you need one is to check their official site, where you can also purchase the ETA for £20.
You need to apply for the ETA before your trip. I used their official app to get the ETA for my husband and me for both Canadian and American passports, and it was very straightforward and only took a few minutes. You will receive a confirmation by email once approved, and you do not need to print this out – it’s directly tied to your passport. If you forget to apply for the ETA, your airline will likely deny you boarding (even if you’re having a connection) or even refused entry.
At the airport, everything was smooth. We just scanned our passports at the e-gates and walked through in less than a minute, with no issues or extra questions.
How Many Days Do You Need In Edinburgh, Scotland?
You can technically see the main highlights of Edinburgh in a single day, but it will feel rushed and very surface-level. If you only have 1 day, you’ll need to prioritize heavily and accept that you’ll miss a lot. The city has a lot more depth than it first appears, especially once you start exploring beyond the Royal Mile.
In my opinion, 2 days is a good amount of time for Edinburgh – although you can stretch it out to 3 if you want to take it slow and enjoy your time without a checklist. For many travelers, especially on a UK or Europe itinerary, 2 days in Edinburgh is enough to see the essentials while still feeling like you experience the city properly.
The Best Time To Visit Edinburgh, Scotland
There isn’t really a bad time to visit Edinburgh, but the experience changes quite a bit depending on the season.
I’ve now visited twice – the first time was in July/August, and the city felt very alive. It was busier with tourists and cruise ships, and the longer daylight hours mean you can stay out late and still have bright evenings. It’s a great time if you like energy and events, but you do have to deal with crowds and higher prices.
This time, I visited at the end of May, and it felt noticeably calmer, although still very tourist-driven. The weather was typical UK conditions: mostly grey skies with occasional lighter moments, and a few short, fast-moving showers that didn’t last long. Nothing that really disrupted the day.
If you want Edinburgh at its most vibrant, summer is great. If you prefer fewer crowds and a more relaxed feel, late spring or early autumn is ideal. Either way, the weather is something you work around rather than plan around.
Weather Reality
Edinburgh’s weather is unpredictable year-round – even in late spring and summer, you should expect cloudy or overcast days, sudden light rain showers that pass quickly, and cooler temperatures than you might expect for the season. It’s not extreme, just changeable.
What To Pack
You don’t need much, but you do need the right layers. A light utility jacket or trench coat, comfortable walking shoes (non-negotiable due to cobblestone roads), a light knit or long sleeve for layering, and a foldable umbrella would be useful.
Even in late May, I was comfortable most of the time with just a light jacket. Once you’re walking around the city, you warm up quickly anyway.
How To Get Around Edinburgh
Getting around Edinburgh is surprisingly easy, and unless you plan on taking day trips outside the city, a rental car isn’t necessary.
When we arrived at the Edinburgh Airport, I was pleasantly surprised by how small and efficient it was. Compared to many larger European airports, we were able to get outside fairly quickly.
From there, we took the Airlink 100 bus into the city. It cost £6 per person, compared to £29 for a taxi or £21 for an Uber to the same destination. The bus ride was super comfortable and easy, and it had luggage racks onboard. One thing I appreciated was that once the bus was full, staff stopped additional passengers from boarding, so there was plenty of room for everyone and their luggage.
The journey to our hotel, The Torfin, took about 15 to 20 minutes. We opted to stay there since it was conveniently located between the airport and the city center, and we had an extremely early flight out the next morning (we had to leave the hotel by 3 AM). Since we really didn’t spend more than 5 hours at the hotel, we didn’t feel the need to book a larger or more centrally located property. We found that our room was much too small, even with our carry-on only luggage, but the staff was extremely friendly and there was a restaurant downstairs as well, which makes it really convenient if you need some good Scottish food.
For most visitors, Edinburgh is a city best explored on foot. Many of the major attractions are all within walking distance of one another, and walking is the best way to discover the city’s hidden closes, viewpoints, and historic streets. That said, Edinburgh is not a flat city. Expect hills, staircases, cobblestone streets, and some fairly steep inclines, especially around the Old Town. Comfortable walking shoes are absolutely essential.
If you don’t feel like walking everywhere, Edinburgh’s bus network is extensive, easy to use, and generally reliable. We used public transportation a couple of times and had no issues getting around, but we did need to ask a local for help about where our particular bus stop would be, since it was a larger station. I did notice that some buses weren’t always running exactly on schedule, so it’s worth allowing a little extra time if you’re on a tight schedule.
Where To Stay In Edinburgh
If you have more time in Edinburgh than I did, I’d recommend staying closer to the city center – particularly around the Old Town or New Town. Most of the city’s major attractions are located in these areas, making it easy to explore on foot and maximize your time.
For first-time visitors, staying near the Royal Mile, Grassmarket, Princes Street, or Edinburgh Waverly Station will put you within walking distance of popular attractions, restaurants, and viewpoints. Not only will you save time commuting, you’ll also be able to enjoy Edinburgh’s atmosphere early in the morning and later in the evening after many day-trippers have left.
Here are some highly-recommended hotels in Edinburgh:
The Balmoral is probably Edinburgh’s most iconic luxury hotel, right beside Waverly Station.
The Witchery is one of the most unique hotels in the city and is just steps from Edinburgh Castle.
House of Gods Hotel has dramatic, moody interiors and is super popular on social media.
The Rutland has spacious suites, a great location, and castle-view rooms available.
Virgin Hotels Edinburgh provides the best combination of location, style, and value and has a popular rooftop bar.
2 Days Edinburgh, Scotland Itinerary
While my time in Edinburgh was relatively short, I still managed to see many of the city’s most iconic landmarks and viewpoints. Fortunately, Edinburgh is a compact and highly walkable city, making it possible to experience a lot in just a couple of days.
Day 1 – Old Town, History, And Iconic Edinburgh Streets
Princes Street Gardens
Time Spent – 20 to 40 minutes
Why You Should Visit – Right in the middle of the city is this separation point between Old and New Town (UNESCO World Heritage Site) with direct views of Edinburgh Castle. The gardens sit on what used to be the Nor Loch, a medieval defensive lake that was drained in the 18th century, and also a filthy body of water that acted as an open sewer and was also where criminals were drowned. They definitely did a great job restoring this place and now it’s one of the best free viewpoints in the city.
Edinburgh Castle
Time Spent – 2 to 3 hours
Why You Should Visit – Built on volcanic rock and dominating the skyline, this is Scotland’s most-visited historic site. It is also one of the oldest fortified places in Europe and a symbol of Scottish resilience. Edinburgh Castle has served as a royal residence, military fortress, and a prison. It is home to the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny used in coronations.
The Witchery Restaurant
This is one of Edinburgh’s most iconic and most romantic restaurants, just steps away from Edinburgh Castle. The name comes from Edinburgh’s history of witch trials in the 1500s and 1700s, when the Old Town was heavily tied to accusations of witchcraft. We booked the Secret Garden dining room, but there’s also a more dramatic, gothic-style dining room I’d like to visit next time. We did the lunch set menu – it was a great value and the food was actually delicious and we very much enjoyed it. The service was 5-star and they even brought out two small desserts for birthday and anniversary festivities which was so nice of them. The atmosphere is incredible, and that’s what people usually come here for. You’ll need to book in advance as there is limited seating. Here’s an Instagram reel of the experience.
The Vennel Viewpoint of Edinburgh Castle
Time Spent – 10 to 15 minutes
Why You Should Visit – This is one of the best direct views of Edinburgh Castle framed by old stone steps. It’s a quieter alternative to Calton Hill and perfect for photos with less crowds.
Grassmarket
Time Spent – 30 to 60 minutes
Why You Should Visit – Historically, this is where all public hangings were held, dating back to the 15thcentury as an execution site. Today, it’s full of pubs and restaurants.
Victoria Street
Time Spent – 20 to 30 minutes
Why You Should Visit – Located in historic Old Town, this winding, colorful street is believed to have inspired Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. It connects Grassmarket to the Royal Mile, and it is one of the most photographed streets in Edinburgh. It was built between 1829 and 1834 and has a unique mix of local, independent establishments, including specialty food shops and wizarding shops.
St. Giles’ Cathedral
Time Spent – 30 minutes
Why You Should Visit – At the heart of the Royal Mile, this is one of Scotland’s most important churches. Building began in the 14th century, but there were extensions and alterations in the 1th century as well as the 19th and 20th centuries. It is known for its crown steeple and many stained-glass windows. It is free entry, but they will ask for a donation at the entrance – and you can put however much you want to, there is no pressure.
The Real Mary King’s Close
Time Spent – 1 hour
Why You Should Visit – This underground network of 17th-century streets is notoriously haunted. It was named after a prominent businesswoman of that time who rented properties in that alleyway to make extra money to support her children after her husband passed. During the plague outbreak, residents were sealed inside their homes here, and it is one of the most historically intense experiences in Edinburgh.
Walk Down The Royal Mile
Time Spent – 1 to 2 hours (if you take your time)
Why You Should Visit – This historic street in Old Town is full of hidden closes, alleyways, shops, and centuries of history. The Royal Mile consists of Abbey Strand, Canongate, Castlehill, High Street, and Lawnmarket. It was basically the route where Scotland’s Kings and Queens traveled between the castle and the palace.
Calton Hill
Time Spent – 30 minutes
Why You Should Visit – This is another one of the best viewpoints in Edinburgh, especially for sunsets, and it is home to the National Monument of Scotland, which was inspired by the Parthenon in Athens, and Nelson Monument, a tower built in honor of Admiral Nelson for his victory and death at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. It was designed as Edinburgh’s “Acropolis” because it overlooks the city, but it was left unfinished when funding ran out before completion.
The Ghost Bus Tours
The Ghost Bus Tours was a hosted experience, but as usual, all opinions are my own.
Time Spent – 1 hour 15 minutes
Why You Should Visit – You can’t go to Edinburgh without experiencing a ghost tour, and after taking The Ghost Bus Tours, it’s easy to see why it’s one of the city’s most highly-rated experiences. I haven’t been on many ghost tours, but I’m pretty sure very few can compare to this one. Rather than simply walking around the city listening to spooky stories, the tour takes place aboard a vintage 1960s Routemaster double-decker bus that has been transformed into a theatrical “ghost bus”.
As you travel through Edinburgh’s streets, you’ll hear animated stories about murders, executions, hauntings, grave robbers, and other dark chapters of the city’s history – all tied to the locations where they actually took place. However, what really made the tour stand out is the performance. Our conductor, Tommy Terror, did an incredible job bringing the stories to life through a mix of comedy (more on the adult humor side), storytelling, and theatrics (including smoke shows, loud noises, and some jump-scares without being cheesy). Everyone was engaged and entertained throughout the evening. We even made a stop at a cemetery where passengers could step off the bus and view a haunted tower that has been linked to mysterious photographs showing orbs or unexplained figures.
More than anything, what impressed me was how interactive and entertaining the experience was. Rather than simply listening to a guide recite facts, you become part of the story. If you’re looking for a unique way to learn about Edinburgh’s darker side, I highly recommend taking this tour – and you’ll have so much fun.
Frankenstein’s Edinburgh
Time Spent – 1 to 2 hours
Why You Should Visit – Set inside a converted 19th-century church with gothic interiors, this bar is themed around Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein with hourly “monster shows” and dramatic lighting. It’s a perfect way to end the night in this historic city.
Day 2 – Views, Hidden Corners, And Elegant Edinburgh
Circus Lane
Time Spent – 15 to 30 minutes
Why You Should Visit – One of Edinburgh’s most picturesque residential streets is this one – cobblestones, ivy, and colorful doors make it feel almost unreal compared to the rest of the city. It is one of the most Instagrammable streets in the United Kingdom and it’s best visited early in the morning to avoid crowds.
Dean Village
Time Spent – 30 to 60 minutes
Why You Should Visit – This former milling village was once one of Edinburgh’s poorest industrial areas; now it’s one of the most peaceful and photogenic spots. The Water of Leith is a tree-lined river that runs through the center, which adds to this area being a great place for a nature walk.
Palace of Holyroodhouse
Time Spent – 1 to 2 hours
Why You Should Visit – This is the official residence of the Monarchy in Scotland. It was originally a monastery, Holyrood Abbey, founded by King David I in 1128 and it means Holy Cross. The palace later developed beside the abbey and then became a royal residence for centuries after. One of the most famous figures connected to the palace is Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived here in the 1560s.
St. Anthony’s Chapel Ruins
Time Spent – 1 hour
Why You Should Visit – Located within Holyrood Park, this chapel is one of the most unexpected ruins. It sits on a hill overlooking St. Margaret’s Loch, with views across the city and Arthur’s Seat behind it. The origins are unclear, but it is believed to date back to the 15th century or earlier. But what remains today is small, just a roofless stone structure – but it has a nice view!
Arthur’s Seat
Time Spent – 1.5 to 2 hours
Why You Should Visit – Arthur’s Seat is the highest point in Edinburgh and one of the best urban hikes in Europe. It’s actually an extinct volcano, formed around 350 million years ago and rises 251 meters above sea level, offering panoramic views over the entire city. Archaeological evidence also suggests there were Iron Age hillforts on the slopes, meaning people have been using this area as a defensive and strategic viewpoint for thousands of years. Some historians even believe Arthur’s Seat influenced the stories of “Camelot”.
Edinburgh is one of those cities that feels layered in a way that’s hard to explain until you walk through it yourself. Between the history, architecture, viewpoints, and stories behind almost every street, it’s a place that rewards slowing down and exploring on foot. Even with just two days, I felt like I saw a solid mix of the city’s most iconic landmarks while still leaving some more to see in the future. If you have more time, I’d recommend slowing the pace a bit more and adding in museums and day trips to get an even better feel of this historic city in the UK.
Follow my trip as I share my next stop in Bratislava, Slovakia or get more destination inspirations and itineraries with my Europe blog posts.